There is a special moment on the Istrian coast, sometime in mid-October, when the summer bustle subsides and the air becomes crystal clear and permeated with the scent of the sea and damp earth. As the sun slowly sets behind the horizon of the Euphrasian Basilica, that heavy, musky scent begins to waft through the air. It is not the smell of tourism; it is the smell of real, pristine Istria that awakens just as the beaches empty out.
Many people ask me why autumn is my favorite season in Poreč. The answer is simple – it is when Istria stops being a postcard and becomes a feast. Autumn is the time when coastal towns like Poreč merge with their hinterland, and the king of that union is, without a doubt, the truffle.
Peace and Authenticity: Poreč as You Don’t Know It
Visiting Poreč off-season means getting the keys to the city in your hands. There are no queues, no noise, just the silence of the cobblestone streets and the sound of the waves. But the real magic happens in the taverns. While everything is subject to speed in summer, autumn brings slow food at its best.
When you sit down in our shop or one of the local restaurants in Poreč in November, you will receive the full attention of the host. This is the time when stories of tradition are told over a glass of aged Malvasia, and freshly caught treasures from the nearby Motovun Forest dominate the plates.
Autumn: The Season of the “White King”
The number one reason why autumn is the ideal time to visit and taste is the white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico). While the black truffle can be found almost all year round, the white truffle is the one that people come to Istria specifically for outside of the summer season.
Tuber magnatum Pico – the jewel of autumn
From September until January, our family ventures into the heart of the hinterland every day. The white truffle does not tolerate heat treatment; it demands respect. Just imagine the thin, flaky layers of white truffle grated over warm pljukanci or fuži. That intense aroma that is released when it comes into contact with the warmth of the pasta is the reason why gastro nomads from all over the world are visiting Poreč right now.
Truffle Hunting in Istria: An Adrenaline Escape to the Interior
Although Poreč is a city of the sea, it is only a short drive away from the mystical forests of the Mirna River Valley. Truffle hunting in Istria is an experience best enjoyed in the fall. The ground is damp, the scents are more intense, and the forest is painted in golden and copper tones.
Our dogs, trained for generations in the Bartolić family, work at full speed in the fall. There is no greater thrill than seeing a dog stop, fixate on a spot, and start digging frantically. It is the moment of truth – will it be the Black Truffle or the most valuable, the white one? You cannot buy that experience in the summer; it belongs in the fall.
Gastro Pairing: Truffles, Young Olive Oil, and Wine
Autumn in Poreč and the surrounding area is not just truffle season. It is the time of the olive harvest. Fresh, bright green olive oil with that specific spiciness is the perfect partner for truffles.
Young oil and truffles: Try toasting homemade bread with fresh oil and adding a little truffle salt. It’s the essence of Istria in one bite.
Wine pairing: The Poreč region is known for its top winemakers. Autumn brings the ripeness of Malvasia and the strength of Teran, which pair perfectly with robust dishes of game and black truffles.
Why Poreč, and not just the interior?
Poreč offers the perfect balance. You can enjoy the luxury of top-notch hotels that are much more affordable in autumn, stroll along the waterfront without crowds, and in the morning be in the heart of the forest in search of truffles. Poreč off-season offers that slow, Mediterranean rhythm of life that we have almost forgotten.
Mornings are foggy, and days are often warm and sunny, ideal for cycling along the Parenzana trail or exploring small towns in the area that smell of roasting and fireplaces in autumn.
What to try this autumn?
If you visit us in Poreč, we recommend three unmissable gastronomic experiences:
Fritaj with white truffle: The best breakfast Istria has to offer.
Boškarin steak with black truffle: A combination of the strength of indigenous cattle and the elegance of forest mushrooms.
Our truffle honey with mature sheep’s cheese: The perfect end to any meal with a glass of sweet Muscat.
